After leaving San Gimignano behind, an alternative route to the main Via Francigena breaks off near Molino d’Aiano and passes through such fascinating places as the Badia a Coneo, before intercepting Gracciano and Quartaia. This secondary route, immersed in nature and history, intercepts the Elsa River and leads to Le Caldane, the renowned hot springs already known in Etruscan-Roman times, where this deviation reconnects with the official route. A quiet and charming variant, ideal for exploring the surroundings of Colle Val d’Elsa.

The Abbey of Santa Maria Assunta in Coneo, founded around the year 1000, stands in a strategic position between the Via Francigena and the Via Volterrana, nestled in the countryside of Colle Val d’Elsa. Initially Benedictine, it passed to the Vallombrosan Order between 1073 and 1076, taking on the austere architectural style typical of the Order. Consecrated in 1124, the church has a Latin cross plan with a single nave, transept and three apses. On the outside, the portal decorated with zoomorphic motifs and the octagonal dome of the tiburium stand out. The interior preserves capitals carved with motifs of plants and monastic figures, in keeping with Vallombrosian tradition. The once-thriving monastery went into decline in the late Middle Ages and was transformed into a parish in the 16ᵗʰ century. Restored in the 20ᵗʰ century to reinstate its Romanesque appearance, today it is rarely accessible but remains a fascinating stop along the ancient pilgrimage routes.

In the urban stretch of Colle Val d’Elsa, the Elsa stream springs to life and gives shape to Sentierelsa, a nature trail stretching around 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) long that connects Gracciano to the Spugna Bridge. Equipped with boardwalks and rest areas, the trail passes through lush river environments where fish, amphibians and birds can be observed. In addition to its environmental value, the path holds historical remnants such as the Gore Medicee (small runoffs that fed the fertile lands of the Medici family), testifying to the importance of the river in the development of the city. Along the way, encounter fascinating places such as Le Caldane, ancient thermal baths already exploited in Etruscan times, and Diborrato, a small lake carved out by the river and fed by a striking waterfall whose waters cascade some 50 feet (15 meters). A stretch that combines nature, history and tradition along a single, rejuvenating path.