After the hamlet of Gallina, a variant of the Tuscan Via Francigena breaks away from the official route and enters the woods between Bagni San Filippo and Campiglia d’Orcia, climbing toward the slopes of Mount Amiata and passing near the delightful village of Montieri. The route becomes wilder and more mountainous, following ancient medieval streets that lead to Abbadia San Salvatore, a village rich in history and spirituality. The climb, which begins near the Ricorsi Post Office, is rather steep and bumpy, but a visit to the historic town and the thousand-year-old Abbey of San Salvatore, a custodian of the famous Amiatina Bible for centuries, amply repays the effort. From here, gently descend to the Val di Paglia, until reconnecting with the main route near Ponte a Rigo.

This variant represents an evocative and immersive alternative among the forests and spiritual memory of the Amiata.

Nestled in the woods of Mount Amiata, Bagni San Filippo is a small village famous for its natural hot springs that gush out even at 118 °F (48 °C). The mineral-rich hot waters have shaped the landscape, creating limestone waterfalls, natural pools and spectacular formations such as the famous “Balena Bianca” (“White Whale”), a block naturally sculpted by time and sediment. There is no entry fee to access this perfect place to be immersed in a relaxing atmosphere and be surrounded by greenery. The natural thermal mud at the base of the pools is known for its beneficial properties.

Also near the natural hot springs is the San Filippo Benizi Grotto, an ancient place for praying to the saint, carved into the rock and linked to the legend of the birth of the springs. A wild, fascinating and deeply restorative place.

Founded according to tradition by the Lombard King Ratchis in 743 at the place where Christ appeared to him on a white fir tree, the Abbey of San Salvatore lends its name to the village of Abbadia San Salvatore. Rebuilt in Romanesque style around 1035, it was an important spiritual hub along the Via Francigena, especially between the 10ᵗʰ and 12ᵗʰ centuries. The interior holds valuable works of art, including a wooden crucifix from the 12ᵗʰ century and two paintings by Francesco Nasini.

Of great charm is the early medieval crypt with 32 columns bearing carved capitals. The Amiatine Bible, the oldest Latin manuscript copy of the entire sacred text, was safeguarded here for centuries. In the cloister, a small museum collects liturgical furnishings, reliquaries and evidence of local folk devotion.

Grown between 1148 and 3280 feet (350 and 1,000 meters) above sea level, the local chestnut—the PGI Chestnut of Mount Amiata—is one of the gastronomic and cultural symbols of the area. Favored by volcanic soils and an ideal climate, chestnut growing here has ancient roots. Indeed, as early as the 14ᵗʰ century, local statutes regulated its collection and protection with strict standards. Chestnuts are harvested by hand, without the use of fertilizers or pesticides, and come in three main varieties: Marrone, Bastarda Rossa and Cecio. The fruits are large, sweet and fragrant, ideal for roasting, boiling or being turned into flour for Castagnaccio and Sweet Polenta. The production area includes the municipalities of Abbadia San Salvatore, Arcidosso, Piancastagnaio and Castiglione d’Orcia, among others. An ancient product that tells of the deep connection between man and mountain.