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Dotted with historic and religious sites of particular value, this route passes through evocative rural landscapes and allows you to encounter the Quercia delle Streghe (Witches’ Oak), an imposing century-old tree that would inspire Collodi in penning one of Pinocchio’s adventures. The final destination is Altopascio, a small town famous for its tradition of offering hospitality to pilgrims.

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Begins:
Lucca
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End:
Altopascio
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Accessibility:
on foot, in mountain bike
directions
Total length:
18,6 km
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Highlights
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Amid parish churches and ancient hospices to reach Altopascio
Amid parish churches and ancient hospices to reach Altopascio

Leaving Lucca through Porta Elisa, set off on a flat stretch that winds through history and nature. You then head towards the Parish Church of Capannori, a Romanesque jewel nestled in the countryside. Continuing along the route, you’ll pass through agricultural areas and quaint villages such as Porcari, dominated by the imposing white marble church dedicated to San Giusto (Justus of Trieste).
The path leads you to Badia Pozzeveri and the Badia di San Pietro, once an important monastic center for pilgrims on their way to Rome.
The last part of the route guides you to the Church of San Jacopo and finally into the heart of Altopascio, historically linked to the Order of the Knights of Tau, who offered hospitality to wayfarers along the Via Francigena. The historic center of Altopascio, with its charming piazza and ancient medieval hospital, is a worthy conclusion to this stage, replete with history and spirituality.

Please note, caution should be exercised when traveling along the stretch of road in Corte Ginori and at the numerous crossings of provincial roads encountered along the stage. Outside the towns, there is nowhere to replenish your water supply.

spirituality
The Parish Church of Capannori, a Romanesque jewel
Parish Church of Capannori
Photo ©Mikils
The Parish Church of Capannori, a Romanesque jewel

Nestled in the heart of the Lucca countryside, the Pieve di San Gennaro in Capannori is one of the oldest churches in the area and a fascinating example of Romanesque architecture. Its sober façade and bell tower rising majestically among the olive trees render this parish church the perfect place for a reflective stop on your journey. 

Rebuilt in the 12ᵗʰ century on a pre-existing structure, it stands on the border between the plain of Lucca and the Valdinievole. In a strategic position, it favored the establishment of a medieval village around the building. Among its works of art, the parish preserves a terracotta statue long restored by the Opificio delle Pietre Dure in Florence. It is the Archangel Gabriel, attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, who is said to have stayed in the area during his studies in hydraulic engineering.

history
Discovering the roots of Lucca’s land with the Athena Museum of Archeology and Ethnology
Discovering the roots of Lucca’s land with the Athena Museum of Archeology and Ethnology

The Athena Museum of Archeology and Ethnology in Capannori is a journey that reveals the deep history of the Lucca area, interweaving past and traditions through three main sections: archeology, peasant civilizations and the figure of explorer Carlo Piaggia. The facility is a collection point for The Credential (or “Pilgrim’S Passport”).

On the second floor, archaeological artifacts such as coins and amphorae tell the story of ancient Roman activities in the area, while epigraphs and the wooden Frizzone building offer insight into daily life and rituals of the time. Rooms devoted to farming civilization allow you to explore the tools and images of agricultural work, while the section on Carlo Piaggia transports you to his fascinating 19ᵗʰ-century adventures in Africa. In front of the museum, rather, is the “Pilgrim’s Labyrinth,” a path that traces out the design of the “Scallop,” the shell symbolizing pilgrims.

spirituality
Faith and art in Porcari, the Natività di Maria Church
Porcari
Photo ©Ermete Cheli
Faith and art in Porcari, the Natività di Maria Church

In the locality of Rughi stands a church of medieval origin dedicated to the Natività di Santa Maria Santissima, the main religious building in the historic town of Porcari.
The Natività di Maria Church, which served as a hospital in ancient times, is unfortunately little known today but is a true treasure trove of beauty. Indeed, within is a valuable 16ᵗʰ-century panel painting of the Madonna and Child between Saint Jerome and a Martyr, a work attributed after much debate to Renaissance artist Ranieri di Leonardo. A little treasure that testifies to the sacred art of the period and the devotion that characterized this expanse of Tuscany. 

spirituality
The Badia Pozzeveri: memories of pilgrims and monks
Badia di Pozzeveri
The Badia Pozzeveri: memories of pilgrims and monks

Once a thriving monastic hub dating from around the year 1000, the Badia Pozzeveri has hosted pilgrims and wayfarers along their route on the Via Francigena for centuries. Today, the remnants of the ancient complex convey a palpable sense of history and spirituality, with archaeological excavations revealing the stories of those who passed through this place in search of rest and refuge. Walking through the ruins, you can still sense the atmosphere of hospitality that once characterized the site. 

In accordance with its ancient function, some rooms of the Abbey have recently been converted into a hostel that can accommodate about 20 people, continuing the millennial tradition of hospitality.

history
Altopascio and the Knights of Tau
Ancient Hospital of Altopascio
Photo ©Sailko
Altopascio and the Knights of Tau

Altopascio, with its historical significance linked to the Order of Saint James of Altopascio, an ancient chivalric order dedicated to assistance and charity, is an important crossroads of stories of protection and care for pilgrims on the Via Francigena. The Church of San Jacopo and the ancient medieval hospital are tangible witnesses to a centuries-old tradition of accommodation and hospitality. Strolling along the cobblestone streets of the village, opposite the Pellegrinaio, you encounter the Loggiato Mediceo, safeguarding a historical collection documenting the events and memory of the village and its territory.
Immersed in the atmosphere of Altopascio, it is not difficult to imagine the pilgrims who once found refuge and refreshment here. Even today this place retains that warm welcoming feeling that has characterized its history.

flavours
Altopascio bread, a history of tradition and hospitality
Altopascio bread
Altopascio bread, a history of tradition and hospitality

This celebrated local product is yet another symbol of tradition and hospitality in the historic town. With its recipe rooted in the Middle Ages, Altopascio bread was prepared by monks of the Order of Saint James of Altopascio and offered to pilgrims on their travels. Today, it is still made using artisanal methods, retaining its square or elongated shape and soft texture on the inside and a crisp golden crust on the outside. Made with wheat flour, natural yeast, locally-sourced water but no salt, it is produced year-round in and around Altopascio and can be found in major markets in the area. A true ambassador of this place, representing a unique taste experience. A stop in Altopascio cannot be said to be complete without tasting this authentic symbol of Tuscan cuisine.

nature
Lago di Sibolla Nature Reserve, a stretch of wilderness
Lago di Sibolla Nature Reserve, a stretch of wilderness

Just a stone’s throw from the Via Francigena route in Altopascio, the Lago di Sibolla Nature Reserve represents an oasis of tranquility where nature expresses itself in all her beauty. This brackish lake, surrounded by rich marsh vegetation, is an ideal place for birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts. The reserve, which is home to numerous species of migratory birds and other wildlife, represents an unspoiled stretch of Tuscany that invites you on a rejuvenating break from walking, to be immersed in a placid landscape rich in charm.

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