The route does not immediately leave the town of Aulla, located on a narrow strip of land at the confluence of the Magra and Aulella rivers. A short distance from the starting point, the majestic Brunella Fortress catches the eye with its imposing walls and sturdy ramparts, evidence of the city’s strategic role along the Via Francigena.

Once past this fortress, the route again enters the woods, following trails that alternate between challenging stretches and beautiful viewpoints. Among hills and glades, the path offers glimpses of the Apuan Alps. Along the way, the villages of Bibola, Vecchietto and Ponzano Superiore are encountered. Not far from the track, Caprigliola peeps out with its cylindrical tower, once part of the residence of the bishops of Luni.

Moving on, the natural landscape is enriched with historical evocations: the Malaspina Castle in Fosdinovo stands in the distance protecting its village, while only ruins remain of the Brina Castle, now shrouded in vegetation. In these places, where stone is intertwined with green woods, the Tuscan stretch of the Via Francigena offers the first thrilling views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Finally, the path leads to Sarzana in Liguria, where the landscape becomes gentler but the atmosphere more vivacious.

Imposing and austere, a symbol of power and military strategy, the Brunella Fortress dominates the town of Aulla. Its massive conformation seems to dialogue with the surrounding landscape, offering spectacular vistas of the Val di Magra and the Lunigiana hills.

Constructed in the 16ᵗʰ century—likely to replace a medieval structure—this unique example of Renaissance architecture with square plan was designed to withstand the new techniques of warfare introduced by the artillery of that era. Its hypothetical patrons include the illustrious names of the time, such as Jacopo Ambrogio Malaspina and Giovanni dalle Bande Nere. The latter, a member of the Medici family who settled in Aulla in the first quarter of the 16ᵗʰ century, is said to have entrusted the project to Antonio da Sangallo the Elder.

The fortress belonged to the Centurione family from the 16ᵗʰ century until the early 18ᵗʰ century, when Spanish troops occupied it during the War of the Polish Succession. After several changes in ownership, the complex was sold in around 1860 to private owners then resold in 1920 to an English couple (Lina Dulf Gordon and painter Aubrey Waterfield) who gentrified the fortress, transforming it into their residence.

In 1977, it was acquired by the Italian state and now houses the Lunigiana Natural History Museum.

Inside the imposing walls of the Brunella Fortress, the Lunigiana Natural History Museum is a fascinating journey of discovery of the natural wonders and rich history of this area. The exhibits meander through millions of years, illustrating the evolution of the landscape and ecosystems that have characterized Lunigiana over time.

An extensive collection of fossils, minerals and natural artifacts offers an immersion into the distant past, while sections devoted to local flora and fauna showcase extraordinary biodiversity. Interactive models and geological reconstructions help to understand the environmental changes that have occurred over the centuries, while taxidermied animals let you see up close the species that still inhabit this fascinating land.

Along the first stretch of the route, the Via Francigena intertwines with paths of the Apuan Alps Regional Park, with its distinctive mountains that mimic the Alps and dense forests. A corner of paradise where nature is revealed in all its power and magnificence. Characterized by craggy peaks, deep karst chasms and the famous white marble walls, the area enchants explorers, hikers and travelers seeking adventure but also peace. Here, wild beauty is intertwined with a unique biodiversity: the majestic flight of the golden eagle grooves the skies, while rare species such as Palinuro primrose and the Apuan gentian bloom in the meadows.

The park offers an extensive network of trails for all experience levels, from more challenging routes among mountain ridges for experienced hikers to gentler walks along hills that gradually slope down to the sea. Iconic sites such as the Antro del Corchia, Mount Pisanino or Mount Forato reveal sweeping vistas and extraordinary caves that testify to the extensive geological history of this area.

Perched on a hill in Lunigiana, Bibola is a small jewel with a medieval impact, despite dating back to Byzantine times. This ancient village, once a strategic stop for pilgrims, retains the magic of a bygone era. Its stone houses, narrow alleys and remnants of the city walls tell stories of passages and encounters, of travelers seeking rest and of communities tied to the land and traditions. In the heart of Bibola, you can still admire the remnants of what was once one of the most significant castles in Lunigiana, a strategic fortification that protected the entire valley as far as the port of Luni.

Strolling along its streets, you’ll encounter picturesque vistas that expand into panoramas ranging from the Apennines to the Apuan Alps—hills that interlink, valleys that stretch to the horizon and peaks that scratch the sky.

Caprigliola is a village that shields centuries of history, including legends of bishops, sentinels and pilgrims who passed through these lands in centuries past. Its strategic location, perched on the hill and overlooking the vast Magra valley, rendered this a crucial point in the defensive and religious landscape of Lunigiana. Even today, the hamlet continues to dominate the surrounding landscape, giving visitors breathtaking views of hills, valleys and peaks.

The undisputed symbol of Caprigliola is its cylindrical tower, a unique construction standing out in the landscape as a reminder of the past, adjacent to the imposing 18ᵗʰ-century church. The narrow streets, mighty walls, carved portals and perfectly preserved Medici coats of arms seem to hold the echoes of distant voices, ancient encounters and the footsteps of pilgrims who today, like yesteryear, venture along the Via Francigena.

From afar, Fosdinovo watches over the passage of pilgrims on the Via Francigena. A fortified village of medieval origin, it is dominated by the imposing Malaspina Castle, a symbol of the power of the noble family that ruled the place. The Castle, which still stands majestically atop a hill, is one of the most significant fortifications in Lunigiana, testifying to the greatness of the Malaspina family that, over the centuries, played a key role in the history of the region.

The rooms of the Castle, many of which are still replete with period furniture, evoke the splendor and traditions of the past, offering a dive into the court life of bygone times. Every corner of the Castle tells stories of nobility, wars and intrigue, while the view from its terraces offers one of the most striking panoramas of Lunigiana, with the majestic Apuan Alps on one side and the sea on the other.

It is not uncommon to hear of a strange presence hovering within the Castle’s walls. Indeed, one legend has it that the spirit of Bianca Malaspina, bound in tragic love, roams the rooms and corridors, giving the Castle a mysterious atmosphere. The ghostly presence is just one of the many tales intertwined with the history of Fosdinovo, a village rooted in a past, rich in events between history and legend.

Just a short distance from the track, the 17ᵗʰ-century Santuario della Madonna della Neve in Podenzana evokes profound spirituality, surrounded by enchanting natural beauty. Surrounded by centuries-old olive groves and lush forests, the Sanctuary has been a pilgrimage destination for centuries, welcoming devotees with its simple, understated appearance.

According to popular tradition, it is said that the Madonna had appeared around an ancient, centuries-old chestnut tree or, prodigiously, at least image of her had been found there. Today, what remains of that centuries-old chestnut tree is still preserved inside the Sanctuary, protected because the faithful used to take away fragments of the sacred tree as a relic.

The landscape surrounding the Sanctuary contributes to its aura of sacredness and serenity, with soft hillsides stretching as far as the eye can see and the quiet that reigns in this corner of Lunigiana.

Considered the gateway to Lunigiana and a true jewel of the Val di Magra, the city of Sarzana captivates with its timeless beauty and elegance. The historic center, in addition to its piazzas, monuments and majestic Renaissance palaces, reveals the legacy of a past that sees it as a descendant of the ancient Roman city of Luni. Examples of this are the archaeological artifacts retained in the courtyard of the city hall.

Sarzana’s landmarks include the Cittadella, an imposing fortification dominating the city with its sturdy walls, and the Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, a masterpiece of sacred art that represents the devotion and architectural mastery of the past. Sarzana is also a city with a vibrant cultural scene that hosts numerous events throughout the year, perfectly combining tradition and modernity while retaining its historical identity.