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Fortified villages punctuate the route, marking the ancient and extensive struggle for dominance between the noble Malaspina family and the bishops of Luni. Stage 23 is one of great historical interest, winding through the beautiful hills of Lunigiana, green oases rich in biodiversity and sublime landscapes.

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Begins:
Pontremoli
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End:
Aulla
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Accessibility:
on foot
directions
Total length:
32,12 km
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Highlights
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A stretch between the villages and forests of Lunigiana
A stretch between the villages and forests of Lunigiana

This rather long stage, which can be walked in 8 hours, has no significant elevation gain, with a maximum rise of 820 feet or 250 meters. After passing Pontremoli, the route continues along paths traversing the greenery of Lunigiana. 

Numerous medieval villages dot the path, like Ponticello with its tower-houses gathered around a tangle of arches and passageways.
The Romanesque Parish Church of Santo Stefano in Sorano, a sacred place frequented since prehistoric times, introduces Filattiera.
Continuing along the valley of the Monia stream, you reach Filetto then Villafranca. After crossing the Bagnone stream, the path climbs back up to Virgoletta then to a paved stretch, where you need to watch out for traffic, before finally heading toward the end of the stage, to the Terrarossa Castle, an imposing Malaspina residence that signals the approach to Aulla. Here, the Abbey of San Caprasio, a historic stop for pilgrims, welcomes travelers just as Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, once did.

history
Harmony between arches in the village of Ponticello
Harmony between arches in the village of Ponticello

A charming village nestled in the countryside, Ponticello is known for its intricate maze of arches and tunnels. Its narrow streets, lined with sturdy tower-houses, tell stories of a prosperous medieval past. Perfectly preserved, the village finds its origins between the 14ᵗʰ and 15ᵗʰ centuries, with its structure designed for defense revealing the ingenuity of the people who resided here. 

The main entrance to the village is marked by the 17ᵗʰ-century oratory dedicated to Saints Roch and Bernard, featuring a copper dome that was added during a 19ᵗʰ-century restoration.
The village’s quiet atmosphere is shaken up in the summer, when the Festa dei Mestieri dedicated to trades enlivens the entire small town with a historical re-enactment of the daily life and traditions of the farming communities.

spirituality
A Romanesque masterpiece in Lunigiana: the Parish Church of Santo Stefano a Sorano
A Romanesque masterpiece in Lunigiana: the Parish Church of Santo Stefano a Sorano

A genuine jewel of Romanesque art in Lunigiana, the Parish Church of Santo Stefano a Sorano dates back to the 11ᵗʰ century. This Church is distinguished by its simple but imposing architecture, with a stone façade that captivates for its solemnity. 

Prior to the present Parish Church, it is probable that another early medieval church (from the 8ᵗʰ–9ᵗʰ century) stood on this site, from which may derive the epigraph known as that of Leodegar (752 AD), currently preserved in the Church of San Giorgio in Filattiera. It is also mentioned in the late 10ᵗʰ century by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, who passed through this location on his return journey from Rome.

Extensive restorations completed in the year 2000 reestablished its original appearance, which can be admired today.

history
Filetto, a hidden jewel among the hills
Filetto, a hidden jewel among the hills

A charming little village nestled among the hills, it retains the charm of a bygone era. With its cobblestone streets and stone houses, Filetto is a real gem to be discovered. The village arose as a Byzantine fortification in the 5ᵗʰ–6ᵗʰ centuries, origins also reflected in its name, with Filetto deriving from the Greek “Fulacterion”, meaning “fortified village.” Characterized by a quadrangle with high walls and towers, in the Middle Ages the village underwent a major expansion due to a rise in population, also transforming the surrounding forest into crops and chestnut groves. As soon as you leave the town, you encounter the Selva dei Castagni, a centuries-old chestnut grove where numerous Stele Statues were found in the past.

These natural places take us to a distant time, back to prehistoric eras when people made numerous stone idols—the Stele Statues—found here and now preserved in the Museum of Lunigiana Stele Statues in Pontremoli. 

Leaving Filetto behind, you reach Virgoletta, a hamlet stretching along the ridge of a hill guarded over by the bell tower of the Santi Gervasio e Protasio Church.

history
Echoes of a noble past: the Malaspina Castle of Terrarossa
Echoes of a noble past: the Malaspina Castle of Terrarossa

Imposing evidence of a noble past dating back to medieval times, the Malaspina Castle of Terrarossa was home to the Marquis Fabrizio Malaspina, the first Marquis of Terrarossa. Built in the 16ᵗʰ century to take the place of the dwellings of an ancient medieval fortification, the castle possesses imposing walls and an architectural style that reflects the importance of the household in the area. Inside, the marquis carved out ample space for breeding silkworms.

Today, the castle houses the Tourist Info Point for the municipality of Licciana Nardi and the Albino Fontana Nature Library, as well as hosting conferences and cultural events, as opportunities to explore its spaces and be immersed in history.

spirituality
The Abbey of San Caprasio, a temple of spirituality and culture
The Abbey of San Caprasio, a temple of spirituality and culture

Located in Aulla, the Abbey of San Caprasio is an important hub of spirituality and culture in Lunigiana. Founded in the 9ᵗʰ century, the Abbey has undergone numerous remodels over the centuries, retaining of its original layout the semicircular apse and a stone fragment carved with decorations inspired by plants.

Named after Caprasio, a hermit saint from the islands of Lerino along the coast of Provence, the rectory premises contain the museum of the same name, which displays archaeological evidence from Roman times, the early and late Middle Ages, as well as representations of the figures of the pilgrim, the monk and the abbot.

flavours
Testaroli, tradition on the plate
Testaroli, tradition on the plate

Testaroli are typical of Lunigiana. Formerly associated with rustic cuisine, they began to spread commercially after World War II.
They are made by preparing a simple dough of wheat flour, salt and water to be cooked on a cast-iron testo (the typical griddle pan), red-hot over the fire. The result is soft, spongy crêpes that can be cut into diamond shapes measuring about 2 inches. The Testaroli are now ready to be cooked in boiling water for a couple of minutes, then drained and served with condiments such as pesto, tomato sauce, mushrooms or simply extra-virgin olive oil and Parmesan cheese.

This tasty and wholesome dish has been passed down from generation to generation, keeping local culinary traditions alive.

What to do In this area
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