From Pontremoli, take the SS62 in the direction of Aulla until you come to the crossroads with the SP29, where the village of Bagnone appears, built atop a series of evocative cascades and dominated by the Malaspina Castle. Even the most distracted tourist will notice the 14th-century Malgrate Castle, boasting a splendid circular tower crowned by brackets and the small village that seems to complete it.
Climbing up the road, Bagnone will appear with its fortress and portico leading into the centre, separated by the namesake creak: along the historic roads, you can discover the faciòn with grotesque faces that were placed on the doors of homes as a way to ward off evil spirits. Continue on the hilly SP21, passing through the hamlets of Gabbiana, Lusana and Villa di Panicale to arrive in Licciana Nardi, home to a castle, medieval walls and the Church of Santi Giacomo e Cristoforo.
You can reach Comano from Licciana Nardi, at the foot of the Tosco-Emiliano Apennines. Begin the hike toward Camporàghena (up 880 metres, 6 hours total) from the castle (530 m): walk upward in the shade of a chestnut forest until you reach a crossroads; ignoring the deviation to the left that leads to the town of Sommocomano, head down an ancient, cobblestoned mule track. After crossing the Fiascone stream, continue the steep path that leads up to the Montefiascone meadows, flanking the slopes of Monte Rozzo to the left. When you reach a pass in a large, open area, descend back down to the right toward the forest and the Ragadoni canal. The road now offers a suggestive view of the imposing terrace of the Groppi di Camporàghena.
Halfway up, continue toward the Luscignano stream, making sure to keep to the left; once you’ve crossed the stream, the mule track will also lead you past the Paleroso stream before reaching the Torsana cemetery (936 m). Go past the Church of San Giacomo and descend the ancient mule track to “touch” the Camporàghena Castle and the Church of SS Pietro e Paolo; you’ll eventually come to Camporàghena, a well-preserved village built along the road that connects Comano to Sassalbo and to Passo del Cerreto. Camporàghena is home to curious rural sculptures dating to before the 17th century, made up of faces, doors, stone fountains and maestà, the last of which are marble low-reliefs that can be found all throughout the Lunigiana, on ancient paths through the forests and within city centres, as is the case with the beautiful example located in a votive niche in Camporàghena. The day ends in Aulla, home of the Abbey of San Caprasio, one of the most important monastic centres in medieval Lunigiana. You can’t miss a visit to the austere and mighty Brunella Fortress, where the Museum of Natural History is located, educating visitors about the most important aspects of the Lunigiana’s environment.